Pointed fingers for its composition, the semi-permanent varnish is not without risk for the nails.
Particularly appreciated during the summer, the semi-permanent varnish is the guarantee of a perfect manicure for at least two weeks on the hands or the feet.
Very resistant, it is composed of a pigmented acrylic gel and applied with a brush, in the same way as a classic varnish.
Its drying is a little more tedious since it requires several passes under a UV lamp, between each layer. It takes about 40 minutes in the institute for a semi-permanent manicure. It will also take patience to remove the varnish, for 15 to 20 minutes, the fingers wrapped in papillotes of acetone remover.
If the practical aspect of this type of manicure makes you want to get started, you should follow certain precautions to preserve your nails.
What about UV lamps?
Between each layer of semi-permanent varnish, the nails require passage under a fluorescent UV lamp for a few minutes to catalyze the gel.
A technique undermined in 2013 by a study by The Skin Cancer Foundation , establishing the risk of skin cancer, minimal but not negligible, associated with the use of these lamps. Elizabeth Hale, vice president of the foundation against skin cancer advocated the use of “a minimum SPF 15 sunscreen , before any exposure to ultraviolet rays”.
However, the opinions of professionals differ on the subject. Chris Adigun, assistant professor at the Dermatology Clinic at the University of Medicine in New York, says on the US WebMD website that “the cancer risk from nail lamp exposure remains extremely low.”
Remove polish after three weeks maximum
After about two weeks, the semi-permanent varnish begins to flake slightly and the nail regrowth is visible. But beyond the aesthetic aspect, the nail, “smothered” under the gel, does not hydrate more naturally and needs to breathe again.
For Christian David, co-creator of the organic nail polish brand Kure Bazaar, “it is not especially the semi-permanent nail polish that will cause significant damage to the nail, but a combination of factors, such as the weather. gel laying “. Beauty salons recommend a withdrawal of the product after three weeks maximum, under penalty of seeing his fingernail become soft, brittle or develop a mycosis.
Adèle, 24, tested the semi-permanent nail polish on her feet during a summer “to avoid the hassle of having to recover from the nail polish every time she came back from the beach.” I was delighted with the result, I kept it for a month and a half I gradually cut my nail and I filled the regrowth with a classic polish.
I found a few days after the total disappearance of the gel that I had fungi that had appeared under the nails.I think they have remained too long locked up. ”
Take breaks between each manicure
“It’s important to take semi-permanent nail polish breaks for about ten days, during which time you will take care of your nails by moisturizing them,” says Audrey from Nail Art Well-Being and Sequins . Indeed, dried out by the gel that acts as a shield with the outside, the nails will be stopped in their process of natural hydration, becoming more sensitive and soft.
“The real debate is really what will be added to the nail by removing the semi-permanent varnish to promote its reconstitution and rehydration, confirms Christian David.The ideal is to alternate as regularly as possible between varnish and natural nails and heading towards 100% vegetable after removal. ” We can set up a routine to strengthen the nails at a rate of one mask per week for two weeks and the application of a vegetable oil every night at bedtime for ten days.
Hand care mask kit with natural extracts of organic barley, aloe & avocado, Kure Bazaar, 6 euros. Oil nails and cuticles, OPI, 15.95 USD at Sephora. Miracle Cure Fortifying Care, Sally Hanson, 11 USD at Sephora.
Courtesy of Kure Bazaar, OPI, Sally Hansen
Take your time to remove the semi-permanent nail polish
The process of removal of the gel can also be aggressive for the nail: “the risk is to tear plates of keratin if you go too hard, so you take your time,” advises Audrey. If in many institutes it is preferred to soak the nails in a container of acetone remover before removing the varnish become soft with a boxwood stick, others opt for the method of papillotes, more long but less aggressive. “It’s just as effective and it avoids damaging the keratin of the nails,” explains Catherine, 53, who describes herself as a “hardcore of the semi-permanent”. This prolonged contact with acetone to melt the product may be irritating to some people and helps to dehydrate the nail.
Especially one avoids the technique of sanding which involves filing the nail until eliminating the semi-permanent varnish that may tear a large number of layers of keratin until a thin surface, soft and suffering.
If you clog your nails , it is possible that the institute refuses the installation of semi-permanent varnish that may not fit on a small surface and the keratin will be damaged by the regular passage of teeth. Same thing on a streaked , weakened or broken nail .
Chemical substances of concern to nail workers
In a statement issued in November, ANSES – National Agency for Health Safety – pointed out the composition of the semi-permanent nail polish, the removal of which poses a long-term risk for employees of nail salons.
“The resins used contain in particular (meth) acrylic monomers, skin sensitizers or even respiratory sensitizers at the origin of a large number of observed occupational diseases,” explains Nicolas Bertrand, an engineer specializing in occupational health and public health. National Research and Safety Institute.
When sanding the gel necessary for the removal of semi-permanent varnish, professionals are exposed to particles whose consequences can be respiratory problems such as asthma.